Hog Wild Smokehouse Toano/ Williamsburg VA

Hog Wild Smokehouse

SHELLEY RAUCH'S REVIEW OF HOG WILD SMOKEHOUSE: My husband pulled the motorcycle smoothly off Route 60, just in front of the modest building that houses Hog Wild Smokehouse. Happy pigs, with wings no less, were everywhere; cavorting at the corner of Bourbon and Canal Streets, fluttering in the wind as wind-catchers or chimes, and of course, on the shirts of the employees.

Our hostess gave us three seating choices; smoking, non or patio; we opted to sit on the patio. We passed through the modest dining room, open and clean, with homey touches here and there. A family sat laughing in a booth, sipping on sweet tea and water. Our hostess deposited us outside on the newly-built patio, where ceiling fans whirred in harmony to the strains of old-school Country & Western.

After taking our drink order, she left us to peruse the comprehensive menu. Southern barbecue, briskets and ribs, oh my! The cuisine extended into Cajun territory with zestfully described jambalaya, fried catfish and ‘Ate-too-Fay’. When the waitress returned with our icy cold Budweisers, we had yet to make a decision. Thankfully, she steered us into the hallowed land of combo platters. Dispel any notion of petty fast-food offerings, my friend, this is the real deal at only $25.

The Hog Wild Combo comes in tipping the scales with a pound of ribs, half a chicken, choice of brisket/pulled pork, cheesy cornbread, plank fries, barbecued beans, corn and ’slaw. Now, don't feel constrained by all the listed trappings of the combo. As our waitress explained, its perfectly acceptable to swap meat for desired meat; same goes for the sides. After a brief bargaining session, Dave and I finally agreed upon the ribs, the brisket and the pork, and exchanged the corn for collard greens.

We came hungry, so we opted to munch on some Gator Bites ($8) while waiting. The last time I'd tried gator was at a fair in Florida, and to say that they tasted like greasy, fried balls of rubber would be an insult to greasy, fried balls of rubber everywhere. Luckily, these were a different beast entirely. Marinated in buttermilk and dusted with a light cornmeal batter, they were tender and tinged with just a touch of spice. The accompanying horseradish cream was the perfect dipping companion, zingy and lively. Brilliant.

As we nibbled away, the chef himself came outside to pull a few items from the stand-alone freezer. An affable sort, he had no problems chatting with us about barbecue, green hickory, or his Southern Pride gas-fired smoker. “We make everything here except for the Ranch dressing!” He laughed. I thought that strange, and asked him why. “Because folks like their Ranch dressing the way they've been getting it bottled for years,” he sighed, with a resigned smile.

Before we knew it, a meat-laden platter came barreling through the door on the arm of our waitress. She giggled as she set it down to our gasps, then laughter. “Good luck!” she said, and left us to dive in. Center stage are the many lovingly smoked offerings. Gorgeously slow-cooked brisket is tenderly caressed with smoke and spice. Barbecue is treated in the same manner, pulled or minced, and filled with wood-tinged porcine flavor. Let's not forget the ribs, either — everything, really, that a good, honest rib should represent. Juicy, meaty, and falling off the bone. Honey, I'm sorry, but I am absolutely head-over-heels over another man's ribs.
I should mention that all the meats come dry-rubbed; the saucing is left up to you. A five-pack of bottles runs the gamut from Sweet'n'Sassy St. Louis Vinegar Based, to the Cajun Voodoo Tabasco-based spicy goodness. We tried all, and not a one was lacking — I'm only sorry we forgot to purchase a bottle to take home.

Have I mentioned the sides yet? The collard greens, grown by the chef, and carefully cooked down with fat-back. The slaw, mayo-based, but good, with a clean flavor. The barbecued beans, the brown-sugar sweetness tamed with more pork fat. Holy cornbread, cheesy and touched with honey ... yes, the sides stood up good and strong all around.
Owners and chef Blanche & William “BillLee” Watkins have been operating this little slice of Southern goodness since April of 2005. This former biker bar has effortlessly turned the corner to be the kind of laid-back restaurant that caters to families, regular folks, and those who enjoy the good things that come from the smoker and the Bayou. Come see why sometimes it's best to “never trust a skinny chef!”

Hog Wild Smokehouse8864 Richmond Road, Suite 101, Toano
Phone: 741-2515www.hogwildsmokehouse.com
Specialties: “Traditional smokehouse barbecue and authentic Creole cuisine.”Price range: Starters $4.50-$8;Soups/Salads $2.50-$7; Sandwiches: $5-$15; Entrees: $9-$20; Desserts: $3-$4.50.
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 11 a.m. -9 p.m.; Sunday: 11a.m.-4 p.m.Alcohol: Wine, beer, mixed drinks.Smoking: Smoking area inside and on patio.Vegetarian: Vegetarian chili or specials. Wheelchair accessible: Yes. Payment: Cash, check or credit card.Noise level: Conversational.Atmosphere: Casual & family-friendly.Additional information: Outdoor patio.
Star rating: Food 5, Atmosphere 3, Service 4

For addidtional info contact JohnWomeldorf@LizMoore.com
757 254 8136 www.MrWilliamsburg.com